True, the country's first nationwide elections, which are to begin on Thursday, are only for local councils, with voters electing half of the councils' members and women banned from running and voting.

But the ballot is seen as a concrete step in a reform process no one had expected.

The elections are part of the kingdom's measured response to calls for reforms long sought by liberals. Saudis will be given a chance to participate in decision-making in an absolute monarchy, which has an unelected consultative council that acts like a parliament. Political parties are banned here, and press freedoms are limited.

Already there are unfamiliar scenes on Riyadh's streets.

For the first time there are forums, daily meetings at candidates' headquarters, where people can discuss social issues away from the control of religious authorities. One woman even called a candidate, praised his looks and offered to be a second wife.

Candidates' flyers are thrown into open car windows, and brochures are folded into newspapers.

Carpeted tents have been erected along highways, attracting potential voters with programs featuring poets, lectures by experts in municipal services and sumptuous feasts.